A Bakers Guide To Chocolate

What’s the difference between bittersweet chocolate and
semisweet chocolate? Can I use Dutch cocoa in all my
recipes calling for cocoa? Understanding the difference in
chocolate and how they are used is essential to baking. In
this guide, we’ll identify the characteristics of those
chocolates used in baking.

Cocoa is the dry chocolate powder derived from chocolate
liquor. It comes in two types: natural and Dutch process.
Dutch processed cocoa is processed with an alkaline. It is
slightly darker, smoother, and more easily dissolved than
natural cocoa. In many recipes, natural cocoa and Dutch
cocoa are not interchangeable. Natural cocoa is slightly
acidic and will therefore chemically react with baking soda
to create carbon dioxide bubbles and some leavening power.
Dutch cocoa is slightly alkaline, will not react with
baking soda, and must rely on baking powder for leavening.

Bitter (unsweetened) baking chocolate is made from pure
chocolate liquor. By specification, it must contain 50 to
58 percent cocoa butter though with inferior products,
vegetable oil may he added. Depending on the producer, milk
solids, vanilla, or salt may be added. I have a package in
front of me that contains only chocolate and milk solids.
Unsweetened chocolate has a bitter taste and relies on
sweeteners in the recipe to make it palatable.

Sweet baking chocolate--bittersweet, semisweet chocolate--
has sugar added. These products must contain 35 to 50%
cocoa butter but may have as little as 15% chocolate
liquor. Because unsweetened chocolate has twice the
chocolate liquor, we prefer to use unsweetened chocolate in
most of our baking.
Bittersweet and semisweet chocolate can be used
interchangeably in recipes though there is a difference in
flavor. Often, bittersweet is a more expensive chocolate
and to many, a better, richer-flavored chocolate.

Milk chocolate is made with ten percent chocolate liquor.
It contains a minimum of twelve percent milk solids.
Because it has such a low percentage of chocolate liquor,
rarely is it melted and added to batter or dough.

White chocolate contains no chocolate liquor but is made
with cocoa butter. Historically, the FDA has not regulated
the manufacture of white chocolate so you need to read
labels carefully. If the product was made with vegetable
oil instead of cocoa butter, it will not perform the same
as a product with cocoa butter.

Chocolate chips are made with chocolate liquor with only
minimal amounts of cocoa butter. Instead, they are made
with vegetable oil and stabilizers to help them hold their
shape. Without the cocoa butter, chocolate chips have a
different taste and mouth feel. Chocolate chips will have a
firmer set in puddings, pie fillings, and sauces than
baking chocolate. Chocolate chips can be purchased in milk
chocolate and semi-sweet chocolate.

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Thanks for reading,
Chef Brian Ankner